This is the AA-MSA Inspection blog (www.aa-msa.com). AA-MSA Inspector's write about their actual building inspection and environmental testing experiences. This blog post discusses wet basements. For additional information about this blog, contact Joe Raffone toll-free at 1-800-888-8107 ext 302.
If you are purchasing a home, be sure to have a knowledgeable professional look at the basement. Wet basement conditions are sometimes concealed by paint or other camouflage. AA-MSA Inspectors are trained to identify the telltale signs of flooding. Sellers often disclose an "occasional wet area" when in fact there is a serious wet basement condition. Don't be surprised if after calling a basement water-proofing contractor, he tells you that there is a water seepage problem .... Call AA-MSA for an unbiased diagnosis, an understanding of where the water is coming from and recommendations of how best to stop it! Call us today toll-free at 1-800-888-8107 or visit us on the web at www.aa-msa.com.
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Resume Video
Create a Video resume
Welcome to AA-MSA Inspection Service's Blog (http://www.aa-msa.com/). I was impressed lately when I received a video of an upcoming software update.
Anyway ... Good luck!
About me ... I make every inspection an opportunity to share my knowledge of construction defects with my clients. I'm certified by the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI), I'm licensed in three states; I've completed thousands of residential and commercial inspections and Phase I and II Environmental Site Assessments. I'm also a trained Indoor Air Quality and Mold Inspector. Oh and yes, I have hundreds of hours of training under my belt also. But ... what really motivates me is saving my clients money by pointing out defects that sharpen their ability to negotiate for seller concessions! Call me if you are planning a purchase in CT, NY or MA. I can be reached at 1-800-888-8107 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 1-800-888-8107 end_of_the_skype_highlighting x302. Never a charge for my thoughts!
Saturday, November 28, 2009
Chimney cleaning in Clinton, CT
This is the AA-MSA Inspection blog (www.aa-msa.com). AA-MSA Inspector's write about their actual building inspection and environmental testing experiences. This blog post discusses fireplace use and chimney's.
If you are purchasing a a home, be sure to have the fireplace inspected. There is no way to know when the chimney was last cleaned and evaluated by a licensed professional. We routinely recommend that all chimney(s) in a structure be periodically (including those used for heating and/or hot water) cleaned and evaluated by a licensed professional. How often does a fireplace chimney need to be cleaned? If it is used more than three times a week it should be done every year. One clear sign that it needs attention is if soot falls from the damper when it is opened.
But beware ... The CT BBB warns consumers about chimney cleaning con game.
Dishonest operators use fear, high pressure tactics and lowball estimates to cheat consumers. – In light of the recent arrest of two New York men who tried to cheat a Milford homeowner, Connecticut Better Business Bureau is warning consumers about chimney cleaning scams. The arrests followed an investigation by the Dept of Consumer Protection (DCP), which alleges the men turned a $39.95 chimney cleaning estimate into a recommendation for $3,200 in unnecessary repairs. When a contractor tells you that your life is in danger or part of your home needs urgent repairs to prevent serious damage, your first instinct is to protect yourself and your property. Unlicensed and dishonest contractors often use fear tactics to turn routine maintenance into an unnecessary costly and potentially unsafe job.Don’t be taken in by low prices. An inspection usually costs $125 and the cleaning is another $150 and should take about an hour. For adt;l information click this link: http://www.your-story.org/connecticut-better-business-bureau-warns-consumers-about-chimney-cleaning-con-game-18397/
If you have concerns about your chimney or fireplace, call the experts at AA-MSA, Inc., and we'll arrange an inexpensive inspection for you, 1-800-888-8107. Visit us on the web at www.aa-msa.com.
If you are purchasing a a home, be sure to have the fireplace inspected. There is no way to know when the chimney was last cleaned and evaluated by a licensed professional. We routinely recommend that all chimney(s) in a structure be periodically (including those used for heating and/or hot water) cleaned and evaluated by a licensed professional. How often does a fireplace chimney need to be cleaned? If it is used more than three times a week it should be done every year. One clear sign that it needs attention is if soot falls from the damper when it is opened.
But beware ... The CT BBB warns consumers about chimney cleaning con game.
Dishonest operators use fear, high pressure tactics and lowball estimates to cheat consumers. – In light of the recent arrest of two New York men who tried to cheat a Milford homeowner, Connecticut Better Business Bureau is warning consumers about chimney cleaning scams. The arrests followed an investigation by the Dept of Consumer Protection (DCP), which alleges the men turned a $39.95 chimney cleaning estimate into a recommendation for $3,200 in unnecessary repairs. When a contractor tells you that your life is in danger or part of your home needs urgent repairs to prevent serious damage, your first instinct is to protect yourself and your property. Unlicensed and dishonest contractors often use fear tactics to turn routine maintenance into an unnecessary costly and potentially unsafe job.Don’t be taken in by low prices. An inspection usually costs $125 and the cleaning is another $150 and should take about an hour. For adt;l information click this link: http://www.your-story.org/connecticut-better-business-bureau-warns-consumers-about-chimney-cleaning-con-game-18397/
If you have concerns about your chimney or fireplace, call the experts at AA-MSA, Inc., and we'll arrange an inexpensive inspection for you, 1-800-888-8107. Visit us on the web at www.aa-msa.com.
Well water and what to expect
This is the AA-MSA Inspection blog (www.aa-msa.com). AA-MSA Inspector's write about their actual building inspection and environmental testing experiences. This blog post discusses private wells and how you can expect them to perform.
According to HUD, a well is considered to have adequate performance if it can provide at least 180 gallons of uninterrupted water flow within a timed period (max of 60 minutes), at a consistent flow rate. The flow must continue at the end of the timed period. Well equipment that is old is often the cause of reduced flow rates and diminished well water supply. For further information, click these links: http://www.water-doctor.com/WD_wellwater.html ; http://www.epa.gov/ne/eco/drinkwater/pdfs/ctbrochure.pdf ;
If you have concerns about the quantity or quality of your well water, call the experts at AA-MSA, Inc., and we'll arrange an inexpensive test for you, 1-800-888-8107. Visit us on the web at www.aa-msa.com.
According to HUD, a well is considered to have adequate performance if it can provide at least 180 gallons of uninterrupted water flow within a timed period (max of 60 minutes), at a consistent flow rate. The flow must continue at the end of the timed period. Well equipment that is old is often the cause of reduced flow rates and diminished well water supply. For further information, click these links: http://www.water-doctor.com/WD_wellwater.html ; http://www.epa.gov/ne/eco/drinkwater/pdfs/ctbrochure.pdf ;
If you have concerns about the quantity or quality of your well water, call the experts at AA-MSA, Inc., and we'll arrange an inexpensive test for you, 1-800-888-8107. Visit us on the web at www.aa-msa.com.
Radon in the air in Ridgefield, CT
This is the AA-MSA Inspection blog (www.aa-msa.com). AA-MSA Inspector's write about their actual building inspection and environmental testing experiences. This blog post discusses elevated levels of deadly Radon gas that entered the living space through cracks in the basement floor.
So why should we be worried about radon in our homes? You can not see or smell radon gas as it seeps into your basement and home from the earth below. This radioactive gas causes damage to our cells deep within the lungs. Unlike carbon monoxide gas which has defined symptoms from increasing amounts of exposure similar to the flu. Radon gas exposure has no early discernible symptoms. An associate of mine told me of friend who was told by his doctor at his yearly exam that he should test for radon gas. Why?... because it's good preventive medicine. The trouble with radon is that it causes lung cancer and its symptoms are usually not evident until it's well developed. The level of Radon gas in this home was 23pCi/L or nearly 4 times the acceptable EPA action level of 4pCi/L. The former owner of his home had just died of lung cancer. For more details, click the link:
http://www.ehow.com/about_4672754_symptoms-radon-poisoning.html
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Old Electric Wiring in Old Saybrook, Connecticut
This is the AA-MSA Inspection blog (www.aa-msa.com). AA-MSA Inspectors write about their actual building inspection and environmental testing experiences. This blog post is the hazards associated with old electrical wiring.
The wiring in most 19th century buildings is a mixed lot. Some of it is cable with a cloth covering that looks like canvas. Some is metal jacketed. Some is single strands that are strong onto glass knobs (http://www.oldhouseweb.com/how-to-advice/knob-and-tube-wiring.shtml and http://ezinearticles.com/?Hazards-of-Knob-and-Tube-Wiring&id=2058371).
Then there is the issue of fuses vs circuit breakers. If your system has been plagued by burned fuses because of overloaded circuits, do not solve the problem by substituting a larger fuse for a smaller one. Doing so is a major cause of household electrical fires. The wire in a 15-amp circuit has more resistance than wire in a 20-amp circuit. When a wire resists current, energy is dissipated in the form of heat, which in turn can cause a fire. Some insurance companies charge a higher premium when a building has fuses instead of circuit breakers. http://www.rusticgirls.com/electrical/household-fuses-3.html and http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/homemaintenance/electrical/fusebox.php
Like plumbing, the electrical distribution system in an old building can become a hodge-podge of parts and pieces, often as a variety of people, not all of them professionals, make patches and repairs. A plumbing problem can cause quite a mess. An electrical malfunction can kill you or burn your house down. http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,562098,00.html and http://www.ul.com/global/eng/documents/corporate/aboutul/publications/newsletters/thecodeauthority/tca_issue_2_2008.pdf
The first rule of thumb with wiring is to err on the side of caution. Be proactive and problems when you find them, even if the minor ones. Above all, make sure to become close friends with a good licensed electrical contractor!
If you are thinking about updating your electric system, call the experts at AA-MSA, Inc., 1-800-888-8107. We'll inspect your electric system for defects and write you a safety "prescription". Visit us on the web at www.aa-msa.com.
The wiring in most 19th century buildings is a mixed lot. Some of it is cable with a cloth covering that looks like canvas. Some is metal jacketed. Some is single strands that are strong onto glass knobs (http://www.oldhouseweb.com/how-to-advice/knob-and-tube-wiring.shtml and http://ezinearticles.com/?Hazards-of-Knob-and-Tube-Wiring&id=2058371).
Then there is the issue of fuses vs circuit breakers. If your system has been plagued by burned fuses because of overloaded circuits, do not solve the problem by substituting a larger fuse for a smaller one. Doing so is a major cause of household electrical fires. The wire in a 15-amp circuit has more resistance than wire in a 20-amp circuit. When a wire resists current, energy is dissipated in the form of heat, which in turn can cause a fire. Some insurance companies charge a higher premium when a building has fuses instead of circuit breakers. http://www.rusticgirls.com/electrical/household-fuses-3.html and http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/homemaintenance/electrical/fusebox.php
Like plumbing, the electrical distribution system in an old building can become a hodge-podge of parts and pieces, often as a variety of people, not all of them professionals, make patches and repairs. A plumbing problem can cause quite a mess. An electrical malfunction can kill you or burn your house down. http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,562098,00.html and http://www.ul.com/global/eng/documents/corporate/aboutul/publications/newsletters/thecodeauthority/tca_issue_2_2008.pdf
The first rule of thumb with wiring is to err on the side of caution. Be proactive and problems when you find them, even if the minor ones. Above all, make sure to become close friends with a good licensed electrical contractor!
If you are thinking about updating your electric system, call the experts at AA-MSA, Inc., 1-800-888-8107. We'll inspect your electric system for defects and write you a safety "prescription". Visit us on the web at www.aa-msa.com.
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
Driveway problems at Danbury, Connecticut residence
This is the AA-MSA Inspection blog (www.aa-msa.com). AA-MSA Inspectors write about their actual building inspection and environmental testing experiences. This blog post is about driveway sealants - Which products are best for your asphalt driveway?
Sealcoating an asphalt driveway every three years not only will make it look better, it actually will make it last longer. Sealing shields paving from the sun’s ultraviolet rays, which can
deteriorate the binder and expose the aggregate. Sealcoating also prevents water and ice from getting into the paving and causing it to crumble.
The sealcoating materials and crack-filling products available to do-it-yourselfers are not as good as those available to the trade. However, few tradespeople use the best products available, so you can often still do the job better yourself if you use the right materials — and you’ll save up to 65 percent of the cost of professional maintenance.
For most of you, choices will be limited to what’s available at your local home center or hardware store. Many larger cities have a distributor of asphalt coating products used by contractors. You may be able to purchase these professional-grade sealers and fillers, but remember that contractors buy in bulk. Most pro-grade sealers come in 55-gallon drums, not the 5-gallon buckets you’ll find at the home center. If you want to get the top-of-the-line sealer, check with your neighbors about buying enough to seal several driveways at the same time.
Coal tar vs. asphalt. Most consumer-grade driveway sealers are water-based emulsions containing water, clay fillers, latex, polymers, additives and either coal tar (a byproduct of baking coal to make coke) or asphalt (a byproduct of petroleum refining). Some so-called “asphalt” emulsions also contain some coal tar.
Although significant improvements have been made in asphalt-based sealers in recent years — the use of polymers and other additives that increase durability and resistance to oil and gas. For example —coal tar products still are most popular. According to the sealer manufacturers, coal tar sealers are more durable and much more resistant to oil or gasoline penetration than asphalt-based sealers because gasoline and oil are both solvents for asphalt but not for coal tar. Asphalt-based sealcoating products are better for air quality because they do not emit high levels of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) like the petroleum-based products do. They also smell better and are less of a skin irritant.
Judging quality. Both coal tar and asphalt-based products are available in plain or filled-sealer formulas. Filled sealers contain sand or other solids that fill small cracks and holes. According to Rick Noon, technical director at SealMaster, the more solids (asphalt, coal tar, polymers, etc.) in the formula, the better the sealer quality and the more expensive it will be. You’ll get what you pay for, and you get more solids in better or best-grade sealers. Comparing the various additives and solids used by different manufacturers is difficult because the formulas are considered proprietary information. The general rule is that the top-quality sealers will have the greatest amount of solids left on the asphalt after the liquids evaporate and cure. The best way to determine quality is by the length of the warranty. The best-grade sealers typically have a five to six-year warranty. The better-grade sealers are generally warranted for three to four years. Plain sealers will carry a warranty of one to three years. Each manufacturer has its specific prorated warranty, which is usually clearly displayed on the label.
A fourth category of sealer has been developed within the last five years or so. It’s best described as airport, racetrack or pavement-grade. This grade of sealer has more durable acrylic polymers and lasts longer than other formulas. Some come with a 10-year warranty.
Cost and coverage. Asphalt sealers are more expensive than coal tar sealers, primarily due to safer environmental factors (lower VOCs) and the technology (polymers, etc.) that must be added to an asphalt-based sealer to improve its otherwise poor performance.
Low-end sealers range from $5 to $8 for a 5-gallon pail that covers about 400 sq.ft. These are usually just a thin coal tar or asphalt-based, paint-like coating. Don’t expect them to last more than one season. Unsanded or “plain” sealers (the better grade) with heavier solid content range from $8 to $11; the best-grade filled sealers cost about $12 to $15. Heavy-duty or racetrack-grade sealers sell for around $20 for a 5-gallon bucket.
Coverage varies between grades. A 5-gallon bucket of low-end sealer covers around 400 sq.ft. The better and top-grade sealers typically cover 250 to 350 sq.ft., depending on the condition of the driveway. Sealer manufacturers recommend applying sealer with a wide rubber squeegee for the most uniform coverage. Pictured at left is a combination long-handle broom/squeegee sold at most hardware stores.
Crack filler/sealers. It’s important to fill cracks and seal expansion joints between asphalt and other surfaces, such as concrete aprons or curbs, to keep water out and prevent erosion of the paving base. Filled sealcoating materials will handle cracks up to 1/8 in. wide.
Hot-applied sealers are best for filling cracks from 1/8 to 1/2 in. wide. Pli-Stix driveway crack and joint filler, made by Dalton Industries, is the only DIY hot-applied product. You press the coiled material into place and heat it with a propane torch (preferably with a flame-spreading tip) or a heat gun until it melts into the crack. Pli-Stix comes in a 1/2-in.-diameter, 30-ft. roll. It can be stretched to fit 1/4-in.-wide cracks or doubled up to fill 1-in. cracks. It also has a lifetime warranty.
Most consumer-grade crack sealers are cold-applied asphalt emulsions with varying concentrations of latex and polymers. They are available in pourable jugs for cracks up to 1/8 in. wide, caulking gun cartridges for 1/2-in.-wide cracks, or as trowelable material for wider ones. If a manufacturer rates its crack fillers using a good-better-best scale, get the best quality product if you want it to hold up as long as the sealcoating itself.
Sealing frequency. Sealer manufacturers and asphalt contractors agree that most asphalt driveways only need to be sealed about every three years. The exception would be in extremely harsh regions, such as the South or desert areas, or when the asphalt turns gray. Graying indicates that the surface is oxidizing and loosing the binder that holds the aggregate in the asphalt. According to sealer manufacturers and engineers at the Asphalt Institute, most driveways do not need filled sealer until they have begun to develop fine cracks. This generally happens after several years. Let new asphalt cure for about a year before sealing, and then use just a plain sealer. If you do like to seal every year to keep your driveway looking new, use budget-priced, unsanded or nonfilled sealers. The drawback to sealing every year is that the sealer can build up and will eventually peel, which also leads to it being tracked indoors. Sealer can permanently stain vinyl flooring even if you remove it promptly. While some brands boast special ingredients to prevent tracking, proper application and curing are key to avoiding problems.
Finally, it’s best to repair cracks and holes in the fall and let them cure over the winter. Then, come spring, hose off the driveway thoroughly and apply single coat of sealer. One thin coat of sealer, regardless of the grade, will give you the best results. Multiple coats do not protect any better and actually will cause problems by cracking and peeling.
Patching and leveling. Cut out potholes and badly damaged areas to the base material and patch them with packaged asphalt mix or, at a somewhat higher cost, special pothole patching material. The specialty material typically is more flexible and easier to use. The patches even work in wet conditions and can be driven on immediately after installation. The best repair for really "alligatored" paving is removal and patching. But Gator-Patch by Maintenance Inc. and Gator Pave by SealMaster can stabilize and level badly cracked asphalt without removing it. You apply them like a filled sealer using a pole-mounted squeegee. Wheel depressions from parked vehicles are nuisances because they collect water. To fill them, use a series of 1/4-in.thick coats of patching material that’s intended for repairing alligatored pavement, or choose a pre-blended
patching material recommended for thin section repairs. You’ll mix the latter with water and spread it from a feathered edge to up to 1 in. thick in 1/4-in. layers.
If you are thinking about driveway repairs, resurfacing or replacement, call the experts at AA-MSA, Inc., 1-800-888-8107. We'll inspect your driveway and write you a "prescription" that will result in a long-lasting solution. Visit us on the web at http://www.aa-msa.com/
Sealcoating an asphalt driveway every three years not only will make it look better, it actually will make it last longer. Sealing shields paving from the sun’s ultraviolet rays, which can
deteriorate the binder and expose the aggregate. Sealcoating also prevents water and ice from getting into the paving and causing it to crumble.
The sealcoating materials and crack-filling products available to do-it-yourselfers are not as good as those available to the trade. However, few tradespeople use the best products available, so you can often still do the job better yourself if you use the right materials — and you’ll save up to 65 percent of the cost of professional maintenance.
For most of you, choices will be limited to what’s available at your local home center or hardware store. Many larger cities have a distributor of asphalt coating products used by contractors. You may be able to purchase these professional-grade sealers and fillers, but remember that contractors buy in bulk. Most pro-grade sealers come in 55-gallon drums, not the 5-gallon buckets you’ll find at the home center. If you want to get the top-of-the-line sealer, check with your neighbors about buying enough to seal several driveways at the same time.
Coal tar vs. asphalt. Most consumer-grade driveway sealers are water-based emulsions containing water, clay fillers, latex, polymers, additives and either coal tar (a byproduct of baking coal to make coke) or asphalt (a byproduct of petroleum refining). Some so-called “asphalt” emulsions also contain some coal tar.
Although significant improvements have been made in asphalt-based sealers in recent years — the use of polymers and other additives that increase durability and resistance to oil and gas. For example —coal tar products still are most popular. According to the sealer manufacturers, coal tar sealers are more durable and much more resistant to oil or gasoline penetration than asphalt-based sealers because gasoline and oil are both solvents for asphalt but not for coal tar. Asphalt-based sealcoating products are better for air quality because they do not emit high levels of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) like the petroleum-based products do. They also smell better and are less of a skin irritant.
Judging quality. Both coal tar and asphalt-based products are available in plain or filled-sealer formulas. Filled sealers contain sand or other solids that fill small cracks and holes. According to Rick Noon, technical director at SealMaster, the more solids (asphalt, coal tar, polymers, etc.) in the formula, the better the sealer quality and the more expensive it will be. You’ll get what you pay for, and you get more solids in better or best-grade sealers. Comparing the various additives and solids used by different manufacturers is difficult because the formulas are considered proprietary information. The general rule is that the top-quality sealers will have the greatest amount of solids left on the asphalt after the liquids evaporate and cure. The best way to determine quality is by the length of the warranty. The best-grade sealers typically have a five to six-year warranty. The better-grade sealers are generally warranted for three to four years. Plain sealers will carry a warranty of one to three years. Each manufacturer has its specific prorated warranty, which is usually clearly displayed on the label.
A fourth category of sealer has been developed within the last five years or so. It’s best described as airport, racetrack or pavement-grade. This grade of sealer has more durable acrylic polymers and lasts longer than other formulas. Some come with a 10-year warranty.
Cost and coverage. Asphalt sealers are more expensive than coal tar sealers, primarily due to safer environmental factors (lower VOCs) and the technology (polymers, etc.) that must be added to an asphalt-based sealer to improve its otherwise poor performance.
Low-end sealers range from $5 to $8 for a 5-gallon pail that covers about 400 sq.ft. These are usually just a thin coal tar or asphalt-based, paint-like coating. Don’t expect them to last more than one season. Unsanded or “plain” sealers (the better grade) with heavier solid content range from $8 to $11; the best-grade filled sealers cost about $12 to $15. Heavy-duty or racetrack-grade sealers sell for around $20 for a 5-gallon bucket.
Coverage varies between grades. A 5-gallon bucket of low-end sealer covers around 400 sq.ft. The better and top-grade sealers typically cover 250 to 350 sq.ft., depending on the condition of the driveway. Sealer manufacturers recommend applying sealer with a wide rubber squeegee for the most uniform coverage. Pictured at left is a combination long-handle broom/squeegee sold at most hardware stores.
Crack filler/sealers. It’s important to fill cracks and seal expansion joints between asphalt and other surfaces, such as concrete aprons or curbs, to keep water out and prevent erosion of the paving base. Filled sealcoating materials will handle cracks up to 1/8 in. wide.
Hot-applied sealers are best for filling cracks from 1/8 to 1/2 in. wide. Pli-Stix driveway crack and joint filler, made by Dalton Industries, is the only DIY hot-applied product. You press the coiled material into place and heat it with a propane torch (preferably with a flame-spreading tip) or a heat gun until it melts into the crack. Pli-Stix comes in a 1/2-in.-diameter, 30-ft. roll. It can be stretched to fit 1/4-in.-wide cracks or doubled up to fill 1-in. cracks. It also has a lifetime warranty.
Most consumer-grade crack sealers are cold-applied asphalt emulsions with varying concentrations of latex and polymers. They are available in pourable jugs for cracks up to 1/8 in. wide, caulking gun cartridges for 1/2-in.-wide cracks, or as trowelable material for wider ones. If a manufacturer rates its crack fillers using a good-better-best scale, get the best quality product if you want it to hold up as long as the sealcoating itself.
Sealing frequency. Sealer manufacturers and asphalt contractors agree that most asphalt driveways only need to be sealed about every three years. The exception would be in extremely harsh regions, such as the South or desert areas, or when the asphalt turns gray. Graying indicates that the surface is oxidizing and loosing the binder that holds the aggregate in the asphalt. According to sealer manufacturers and engineers at the Asphalt Institute, most driveways do not need filled sealer until they have begun to develop fine cracks. This generally happens after several years. Let new asphalt cure for about a year before sealing, and then use just a plain sealer. If you do like to seal every year to keep your driveway looking new, use budget-priced, unsanded or nonfilled sealers. The drawback to sealing every year is that the sealer can build up and will eventually peel, which also leads to it being tracked indoors. Sealer can permanently stain vinyl flooring even if you remove it promptly. While some brands boast special ingredients to prevent tracking, proper application and curing are key to avoiding problems.
Finally, it’s best to repair cracks and holes in the fall and let them cure over the winter. Then, come spring, hose off the driveway thoroughly and apply single coat of sealer. One thin coat of sealer, regardless of the grade, will give you the best results. Multiple coats do not protect any better and actually will cause problems by cracking and peeling.
Patching and leveling. Cut out potholes and badly damaged areas to the base material and patch them with packaged asphalt mix or, at a somewhat higher cost, special pothole patching material. The specialty material typically is more flexible and easier to use. The patches even work in wet conditions and can be driven on immediately after installation. The best repair for really "alligatored" paving is removal and patching. But Gator-Patch by Maintenance Inc. and Gator Pave by SealMaster can stabilize and level badly cracked asphalt without removing it. You apply them like a filled sealer using a pole-mounted squeegee. Wheel depressions from parked vehicles are nuisances because they collect water. To fill them, use a series of 1/4-in.thick coats of patching material that’s intended for repairing alligatored pavement, or choose a pre-blended
patching material recommended for thin section repairs. You’ll mix the latter with water and spread it from a feathered edge to up to 1 in. thick in 1/4-in. layers.
If you are thinking about driveway repairs, resurfacing or replacement, call the experts at AA-MSA, Inc., 1-800-888-8107. We'll inspect your driveway and write you a "prescription" that will result in a long-lasting solution. Visit us on the web at http://www.aa-msa.com/
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